A green house facade is beautiful and advantageous, but many plants need help to climb, a climbing rope system made of stainless steel is ideal. No matter, whether self-made or prefabricated: The assembly is very easy, and you can forget about the care.
You can't insulate your facade any closer to nature than with a dense dress of leaves. The plant forms an additional one, insulating layer of air in front of the house wall. But in order not to damage the building fabric, you should choose plants, who need a climbing aid, to get to the top. The best choice are trellis systems made of stainless steel, which cost more than conventional trellis made of wood or iron, but last a lifetime, without needing any maintenance. Pay attention to manufacturer when buying, who don't just sell you the cable system, but also advice, Planning and assembly material can offer. We installed the "I-Sys" system from Carl Stahl. You can get there for free 1 an individual proposal, an . With which to order all the materials you need. A service, which always guarantees the right quantities and which one should not do without, because the material has its price: For the pediment on page 78 were for example 45 m round strand rope, twenty holders and various other assembly materials are required, the together round 950 cost euros.
Before installation, you need to get advice on the right dowel for your house facade. Enormous tensile forces occur when the ropes are tightened, which are conducted into the masonry via the brackets. Injection dowels with perforated sleeves are the first choice for facing shells and hollow masonry. Here a two-component plastic, which hardens within a few minutes, pressed into a sieve sleeve, stuck in the borehole. For solid masonry and concrete walls, a wall anchor is better used. Scaffolding is ideal for assembly, which ensures a secure stand when drilling and screwing. Alternatively, we recommend a ladder with j a wider base.
Die Montage an Hohlmauerwerk
1 The start of every assembly is the precise measurement of the fastening positions. It is best to mark a central axis on the facade and determine the horizontal fastening distances from there.
2 The verticals are now marked with a bricklayer's plumb line, to be able to stretch the wires exactly at right angles to each other.
3 After all dowel holes are drilled, a perforated sleeve is inserted into each drill hole to hold the injection mortar.
4 Now that's it, to work quickly and to position the ladder so, that as many boreholes as possible are safely accessible. The activated one, two-component injection mortar (mostly based on epoxy resin) is now quickly pressed into the perforated sleeves.
5 Immediately then screw the prepared threaded rods for the brackets into the mortar, so that they stick out of the wall at right angles. After a few minutes the mortar is hard, and the threaded rod is firmly in place. Attention: Correcting or removing the dowel is no longer possible, as soon as the mortar begins to harden!
Mounting on solid masonry
1 For solid masonry (plastered here) so-called anchors are used, which are used with the threaded rod screwed in a few threads.
2 Now screw on two nuts and lock them, so that they are stuck on the threaded rod. Then you can turn the rod into the anchor with an open-end wrench, which spreads out and wedges in the wall.
3 Then the base plate- . and the retaining bolt screwed on.
4 Now the so-called rope terminal can (pressed-on threaded sleeve) inserted through the hole in the bolt. The rope is fastened with a nut and tensioned at the same time. To do this, hold the hexagon of the sleeve with an open-end wrench.