Planks recondition wooden floor – how to be beautiful vol.1

During the renovation, wooden floorboards came to light under the carpeting. there comes a question: Sand or re-cover? We say: who dares, wins – namely a piece of gold from a floorboard.

This is how the paint comes off

Sanding floorboards is not that difficult, as it seems at first sight. However, there are a few ground rules, that make your life easier and the result perfect. What you should take first and foremost, is time. guidelines are: about a day for an area of 10 sqm, two days for areas up to 30 sqm and for all others 10 sqm also one additional day.

The preliminary work, that you have to do before grinding, are done quickly: Remove all bumpers (1) and especially their nails from the skirting board. So you can get the machines closer to the edge and the finish will be cleaner. Wichtig zum Schonen des teuren Schleifmaterials ist das Versenken aller Nägel mit einem Versenker (2).

Protruding nail heads would tear the straps. Whether you scrape out the joints, Is a matter of taste, if you want to do it, you should do that before sanding. The machines, which they need, You can get it at the hardware store or at the parquet machine rental company. Basically, rent all three machine types, the costs for this move only between 6 and 15 euros per day. Only if you loop the complete program, the result will be optimal. partial solutions, For example, only sanding with a single-disc machine, usually go wrong.

The first step is sanding with the roller sanding machine, and it is essential to do so diagonally to the floorboards.

This is important, to level the mostly dished floorboards and to remove all deep signs of use. You can minimize the inevitable roll build-up, if you already have them 10 cm in front of the wall using the lever, drive the machine up to the wall, put the roller down again carefully and grind backwards in the same path. If you are in the same place the roller off- and start again, the approaches become particularly deep.

Then use the edge sander and the same grit to remove the traces of application, by passing over it several times (3). caution: Even the small machine can leave grinding marks behind, therefore, you must not press them down hard, and you must always keep them moving. Because rollers- and edge sanders leave different sanding patterns, you should use the single-disc sanding machine at the very end, an intermediate soft (green) polishing pad and a 120 sanding grid (3) make a finishing touch, which adjusts the sanding patterns again. This is the dustiest grind.

DIE 10 MAIN RULES

• Ganz oder gar nicht: Getting the paint off quickly doesn't work. You need all three machines.
• Schleifen Sie mindestens drei Körnungen 40, 60 and 100. Use 24-grit sanding belts in severe cases, for the intermediate sanding you need two 120 sanding grids and a polishing pad.
• Besorgen Sie sich genügend Schleifmaterial, that means three abrasive belts and discs of each grit. What's left, the lender takes it back.
• Der Lack, all scratches and bumps are removed with the coarsest grit. After that, there is only fine work.
• Setzen Sie die Schleifwalze immer vorsichtig mit dem Handhebel auf die Fläche, otherwise there are deep approaches.
• Nach jedem Schleifgang folgt die Arbeit mit der Randschleifmaschine und gleicher Körnung.
• Zwischen jedem Schleifgang Holzstaub gründlich absaugen, otherwise the machines cannot grind properly.
• Vor dem Lackieren sollten Sie den Holzboden unbedingt grundieren.
• Der Lack muss gleichmäßig ohne Überschuss und Schlieren aufgetragen werden.
• Innerhalb der ersten 48 If possible, do not step on the floor for hours.

Be careful when turning it on
The single-disc sanding machine is only turned on by a very slight- and downward movement of the operating rod. Don't push too hard, otherwise the machine kicks to the side! Always start the cut in the middle of the room, so you don't damage anything when you turn it on.

close joints or not?
In the case of solid parquet, the joints created by the movement of the wood are filled with wood putty (picture), this work is a rather useless endeavor with wooden floorboards. Due to the dirt, the mass does not stick to the board edges and sooner or later crumbles out of the joints again. Even the professionals don't have a patent solution to the joint problem. Who likes it, inserts narrow strips, but the danger, that they come loose again, is big.