When the parking space for the car is getting old, repairs are usually no longer worthwhile. With rental equipment and a lot of elbow grease, your private parking space can be redesigned in a short time.
A parking space for the car is probably as much a part of the house today as the front door. But now there are also parking spaces, the already . have aged so much, that they are more like a field than a parking lot. Here it hardly helps to repair, because the ground has often collapsed, the plaster has become brittle or has frozen broken over the years. The motto now is to create new ones. ‘The simplest method is paving with concrete blocks in a bed of sand. We have the stone “Germania antique” from Kann-Baustoffwerke, used. But before he gets relocated, needs a stable substructure: The ground is down to stable soil “lifted – at least 35 cm! This "planum" receives at least 2 % slope away from the house or in the direction of a drainage and is compacted with a vibrating plate. Vibration plates cost approx 40 Euro rent per weekend (You can find landlords in the Yellow Pages).
The lower tier, a minimal ‘ 25 cm thick stretcher- and drainage layer, consists of gravel, Gravel or construction recycling material of various grain sizes (request grain size 0/32 or 0/45). Muscle strength is required now, because I a dump truck load of such heavy material has to be compressed at least more expensively. There's one on the pavement bed 5 cm high layer of sand removed.
1 Using a spirit level and a guideline, the upper edge of the future paving surface is measured with a gradient of around two percent.
2 At least one truckload of gravel must be delivered for the base layer of a typical parking space.
3 The base layer is already distributed at a gradient and compacted with a vibration plate.
4 Then spread an uncompacted round over the area 5 cm thick layer of sand.
5 The slope of the area is checked again before compaction and corrected if necessary.
6 Now the sand bed is a little less than one paving stone height below the later paving surface.
7 Finally the sand bed is covered with a vibrating plate, which can be rented by the day, compacted. Then you can start paving.
Paving - hard work, but not difficult
After the substructure and pavement bed have been completed and perfectly leveled with the optimal gradient, the area may no longer be entered! From now on, work will be done “overhead”., i.e. from the paved surface. The first row of stones must be absolutely at an angle to the boundary, i.e. to curb or wall, so that unnecessary stone cuts and an unclean pavement appearance at the edge are avoided. A boundary can also consist of a concrete ridge, but is essential, otherwise, when the pavement is shaken the last time, the stones can move sideways or shift! When laying concrete blocks, you should also mix different packages, so that no areas of color appear. Keep in principle when laying concrete pavers 3 to 5 mm joint width. Do not rely on the lateral spacer ribs of the stones, they do not automatically specify the joint dimensions!
Before you start paving, it's worth it, practice the pattern on a test surface.
8 Start in a corner, and pay attention, that the outer rows are perpendicular to each other. This saves you cutting work later.
9 To separate the stones you use a “stone crusher” (for around 40 Euro/weekend rent) i or a two-handed angle grinder l with a diamond disc, which creates optically too clean edges.
10 The finished area should be bordered by a wall or curbs, which are set at the same time when paving.
11 Now the plaster is shaken off again. Sensitive^« patches require one ‘ Plastic vibration plate.
12 Then sand is swept into the joints, shaken off and…
13 … with water and a broom, sand was sludged in again.
This is how the rainwater disappears:
Each paved area seals the ground to a certain extent, so that rainwater no longer seeps away, but superficial. exceptions: Gravel-filled seepage joints and lawn paving. To drain the water is at the end of the avenue (lower point of the slope) a drivable drainage channel installed, here from Aco seif (1 m about 30 Euro). She is placed in a so-called concrete chair (1), which prevents the channel from breaking away and sagging. At the end of the gully (gradient!) becomes the drain with odor trap (I love you) connected to a 100 mm KG pipe (2), that to the rainwater sewer or, where possible, leads to a septic tank. Ask the responsible building authority, which regulations you have to observe (3). The channel cover is usually galvanized and is simply pressed onto retaining springs (4). Alternatively, they are also available in cast iron, that gets a josty rustic look over time (5).