You probably know such wall niches from Mediterranean houses. You can stage beautiful objects in it, set up a home bar, put down magazines. We show you, how this plasterboard wall is made.
Whether beach shell, Glasvasen- or model car collection. With these illuminated niches you can present your collector's treasures perfectly. And the glass shelves also appear light and allow the light from the halogen lamps to shine through to the bottom of the niche opening. So fresh to work! Raincoats or scarves can then be stored behind the doors, metal framework and plasterboard, you can get it in the building materials store. But before it really starts, one more word about the correct cutting of plasterboard: Using a cutter and a spirit level as a guide, score one side of the liner board. Now fold this cutting line over a straight edge, so that the plaster breaks. Then turn the sheet over and then cut off the cardboard cover along the crease line.
How to do it: Illuminated niche
Before you start work, you should sketch the niches on the wall and try out the radius and length of the arc. Because that is purely a matter of taste!
1 The first step is to create the UW profiles, attached to the ceiling and floor, cut to size with tin snips.
2 The profile for the floor is fixed with screws and dowels. tip: This can be done quickly and easily with drive-in dowels! To do this, drill holes in the profile and base and fasten the sheets with a few blows of the hammer. Be sure to, that the distance between the screws is never greater than 100 cm!
3 Now the CW profiles, i.e. the upright sheets, cut to size and placed in the UW profile below. If you have a helper, the UW profile to be fastened at the top can be stopped at the same time, aligned and attached directly to the ceiling with screws and dowels. Everything is in balance, all metal profiles are connected with the crimping pliers.
4 For the niches, panels must be made with the appropriate curvature of the circular arc, to intercept this upwards. And so that the arc later has a sufficiently large contact surface, two gypsum plasterboards are glued together with white glue.
5 The circular arc with twine, Draw a nail and pencil on the glued board and saw it out with an electric jigsaw.
6 + 7 Screw the finished panel onto the wall and add the missing stud frame to the rear UW profile.
8 Now set up the second row of profiles. To do this, screw the front circular arc plates to the CW profiles from behind and place the whole thing in the UW profiles. To do this, cut the UW profiles below and slide in the CW profiles.
9 The sheet metal profiles are connected quickly and easily with the crimper pliers. tip: If you only need pliers like this for a short time, you can borrow it from a building materials store for a fee!
10 For the transverse UW profiles, measure between the two upright metal studs. Cut both legs once at 90° on both sides- and at a 45° angle with tin snips. Then remove the triangular section, Bend the excess upwards and connect them to the uprights using the crimping tool.
11 The plasterboard paneling begins at the edges. You can get the corner edges made of plasterboard ready-made in the building materials trade. They are screwed onto the metal stud frame with drywall screws.
12 The next step is to line the niches. First the lower transverse plate, then unscrew the two upright ones.
13 So that you always hit the metal profiles when screwing the flat panels together, you should draw the course of this on the front of the plasterboard. A spirit level is very helpful here.
14 Now for the hardest part of the wall: the curved plates. A plate strip (generously) crop, the inside of the later curvature with a needle roller (wallpapering tool) perforate and water. The plate becomes flexible.
15 Adjust the curved plasterboard and push it in carefully. Then the upper part of the wall and the areas between the niches are planked.
16 The joints are filled.
17 Now drill holes for the lights
18 The wall is ready for wallpapering.
19 Wire halogen lights.