Everybody knows her, the tile decors of the 70s and 80s. Hardly imaginable, that these colors and patterns were once considered beautiful. If you wanted to part with these tiles, it was always with the teeing off, so there is a lot of dust and dirt involved. But it's much easier and cleaner.
OVERCOAT
Overpainting is the quickest and easiest method, to give the old tiles a new look. Strictly speaking, the surface is not painted, but coated in three operations. A coating system for this is commercially available under the name "MoltoLook"., consisting of primer and paint (Very, round 80 euros for 8 to 10 sqm). The paints are mixed from two components and harden to form a durable and moisture-resistant coating. It is applied with a standard foam paint roller and is not a problem even for inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. However, the structure of the tile surface remains visible and the joints are given the same color as the tiles. The application with the foam roller does not make the surface smooth as glass, but gets a very fine grain.
Take your time overcoating (available) your tiles. First of all, you need to carefully clean the tiles and grout. The manufacturers of coating systems offer special cleaners for this (for example Molto, 375 ml each approx 5,50 Euro). You should dismantle all basins and fittings or at least tape them carefully. Attention: Adhesive tapes must be removed immediately after each coat of paint, otherwise they are inextricably linked to the coating! Silicone joints are not painted over, but previously removed. Silicone removers are helpful (Very, 100 ml round 8,50 Euro), dissolve the last silicone residues and make them wipeable. The actual coating begins with the primer (16 hours drying time), which ensures optimum paint adhesion. Then two coats of paint follow (12 hours drying time). The coating can then be fully loaded after eight days.
1 Start by cutting out the old silicone gaskets in the corner joints. This is best done with a sharp cutter.
2 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time.
3 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time.
4 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time.
5 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time 15 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time. Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time. Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time, Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time!
6 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time (Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time) Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time.
7 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time 16 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time 72 Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time.
Then the seal residues are coated with a silicone remover and wiped away after a short exposure time
A perfect solution for a new tile look - without turning the bathroom into a construction site – is the gluing over of the old tiles with new ones.
For this you should trust the classic tiles, but with a ready-to-use special adhesive example (Quickmix Bau- and tile adhesive "extra class", about 25 euros for 8 to 11 sqm) gluing is no problem. Big advantage of this method: There is no need to remove the old tiles, and you avoid dust and dirt. In addition, your new tiles can be of any format, have colors and decors. But for a lasting and optimal result, in addition to choosing the right adhesive, careful preparation of the wall is crucial. For good adhesion should use an acidic cleaning agent (vinegar water) Soap- and cleaning residues are removed from the old tiles and joints.
Even if you want to stick new tiles over your old tiles, cannot avoid thorough cleaning of the substrate. Soap residue and cleaning agent residues accumulate over the years, especially in the joints. They would make it impossible for the tile adhesive to adhere well to the substrate. Then the classic tile work begins: roughen the surface, Apply special glue, Align the new tiles perfectly both horizontally and vertically and glue them with even joint widths. You should have some manual practice for this. However, the high amount of work is rewarded with a new original tiled wall and the room remains largely clean. Who only flows halfway up, will recognize the edge of the double layer of tiles at the transition to the untiled wall. An elegant transition can be created here with a sloping plaster edge.
So complicated, as it appears, the tiling of walls is not at all. With modern, Ready-to-use adhesives are almost a guarantee of good adhesion of the tiles and a perfect result. Important is, that you decide on the tile format before you buy it, Laying pattern and division of the tiles on the wall (crate) are clear.
Which adhesive is best for which tile and which notched trowel is right, is in the processing instructions for the adhesive. Today, mostly in the thin-bed process with only 6 to 8 mm adhesive layer tiled. Roughly profiled tiles are an exception- and natural stone back.
1 For even better adhesion, roughen the tile surface with coarse sandpaper and a machine. There's only a little dust here.
2 There, where the tiled surface meets the plastered wall, prevents a fabric filling of tile adhesive and reinforcement fabric (hardware store), that the new tiles will later tear at this point.
3 Apply the ready-to-use special adhesive with a smoothing trowel and comb it down to the bottom with a toothed spatula. Apply in sections, so that there is enough time to align the tiles, before the glue sets.
4 So-called joint crosses ensure uniform joint widths (hardware store), which it is usually used for 4 to 10 mm joint width.
5 The tiles are placed in the adhesive bed and then pressed evenly.
6 Check the alignment of each row of tiles with a "tile witch" - two metal corners stuck onto the tiles, between which a band is stretched.