The marking gauge is one of the carpenter's classic marking tools. We show the working method and the tricks of the professionals.
The marking gauge becomes widths- and thickness dimensions marked parallel to the edge. The tool can be used in a variety of ways and is essential for precise work when working with wood. So are e.g. B. to transfer the material thicknesses exactly to the counterparts when tines. In the case of mortise and tenon, the cracks on both parts must be the same distance from the reference edge. This also applies to marking the depth in the case of overlapping. For repetitive scribing work, where the same thicknesses or distances are used continuously, the marking gauge is not only more accurate than a folding ruler and pencil, but also more time-saving: Once the dimensions have been set, they are retained.
The standard marking gauge models consist of one stop and one, two or four sliding bars, fitted with steel pins. These hardened pens are used to mark the surface of the wood by scribing. In the case of special models, the pen can also be replaced with a pencil lead. The movable rods can be fixed independently of each other with screws.
Hardwood tools
Inexpensive marking gauges are made of beech wood, Quality marking gauges are made of hard, made of tough hornbeam. A layer of even harder lignum vitae on the stop further reduces material abrasion. Once set, the dimensions remain fixed and can be used again and again throughout the entire work process. Normally, parallel markings are made to straight edges with the marking gauge. With an attached curve stop, where the tool is always in contact with the workpiece at two points, this also works on curves or circles with larger radii. Other special versions are the ruler for four and the device with two tips on one stick. Four different dimensions can be set and fixed at the same time with the four-fold ruler - often a good help when making furniture. The two tips of the special marking gauge can be adjusted independently of each other and make a double marking possible in one operation.
The Edges, along which the marking gauge is guided, must be smooth and without bulky nails- or screw heads. Unevenness or, for example, dried glue residue would be transferred from the marking gauge to the scribe line.
When marking with the marking gauge, the device must always be in contact with the edge of the workpiece. The main pressure of the hand should therefore be directed against the edge of the workpiece. The marking gauge is guided slightly at an angle under tension. The slope points in the direction, in which the measure is drawn. The cracks must be clearly visible, but must not go too deep into the wood. Unless, the crack is a saw edge or it will later be covered by other components. For some markings, the steel pin can also serve as a pre-cutter, then the tear is clearly made.
The sensitive work applies above all to scribing across the wood grain. The steel tip should separate and tear up as few fibers as possible. The more obliquely the marking gauge is guided, the better the crack depth can be controlled. Inserted along the grain, Scribing tools tend to jump, especially if the grain runs diagonally. It should therefore be marked with the grain if possible.
The marking gauge can also be used to mark points, z.B. when marking screw positions or drill holes. They are marked by pressing in the tip of the pen.