Working with special tools – When scratching with the glass cutter, the glass must always lie flat. A smoothly laid-out cloth on a firm surface is best suited as a base, plan plate. The rest of a solid carpet is also suitable as a work surface. You can mark the cut with a grease pencil or. felt- or everything-writer. However, only the end points of the cutting line should be marked, so that color paste or felt ink does not interfere with the cutter's cutting wheel. The attack, which can be made non-slip by gluing under with two strips of Tesamoll, is created like this, that he connects the dots with one another. The distance from the center of the cutting wheel to the outer edge of the cutter must be taken into account. The cutting wheel is then moved over the glass in one go. You have to follow up, always exactly in the old cutting groove. With round cuts, which are always guided by a stop or a template, one must pay close attention to it, that the scratch forms a continuous line. A glass cutter with a rotating base is recommended for tight radii. It follows the contours better than a rigid tool.
By lightly knocking with the glass cutter exactly below the cutting line, the glass cracks at this point and can be broken easily, for curves with the help of a pair of pliers, with straight lines over a sharp edge and with narrow strips with the recesses in the glass cutter. Small remnants remain, you can remove them by carefully nibbling with special glass breaking pliers.
Drills can also be used to make holes in glass. There are glass or twist drills with special equipment for this. To avoid tilting the drill in the drill hole, the machine should be in a stand. The glass pane must lie firmly and flat and be held in place while drilling. The drill is cooled and lubricated with turpentine or water. You work with low speed and gentle pressure. To avoid breakouts on the underside, Drill from both sides.
The rotatable and particularly pointed base of this special glass cutter adapts to round stops better than the wider base of the standard model. There are circle cutters for circular cutouts or round glass panes. They are fixed in the center with a rubber suction cup and are finely adjustable. Cutouts are divided into individual segments by multiple scoring. After knocking on the underside, they are carefully broken out one by one. Round blanks are scored in a circle and the material falling on the outside is also divided into segments in a star shape, which one breaks off piece by piece. Score rounded corners up to the outer edge and use glass breaking pliers (below) split off. Small remnants with a pincer gripping point (above) nibble off. Thick glass must be specially lubricated when drilling. A small ring made of modeling clay prevents effectively, that the coolant runs apart. It is sufficient for thin glass, moisten the drill with coolant from time to time. After piercing the drill, drill the remainder from the back.
Protect against sharp edges – When carrying panes of glass, you should protect your hands from injuries with gloves or a cut-resistant rubber cloth. Panes can be lifted more safely with special rubber suction cups.