Everything speaks for do-it-yourself: Ready-made doors are only available in modular dimensions and usually only as slats. Be inspired by our door creations.
Ready-made cabinets or self-made, which were supplemented with the help of prefabricated doors, sometimes that certain something is missing. No matter how beautiful you are, often one cannot resist the impression, to have seen the same cabinet elsewhere. aside from that: The grid dimensions of finished doors do not always match. So why not design doors yourself? We show you, how to give your closet an individual touch: with custom doors. Six suggestions for every taste – and for each measure. This is how the built-in closet is made, which we presented in the previous issue, added. Don't worry about norms: Building doors is not difficult at all. Whether as a slide, rotary, or folding door, these creations go along with everything.
You need a drill with a countersink – and if possible a drill mobile.
On the 21 mm thick multiplex board (beech), a waterproof glued multilayer plywood, first mark the positions of the holes arranged in a square. To do this, use angles, pencil and grains.
■ Mit dem Senker, also called Krautkopf, conical holes are formed (a). Drill about
15 mm deep. With the help of a mobile drill, this can be done evenly. Then smooth the holes with fine sandpaper.
■ Die Holzstruktur kommt gut zur Geltung, if you finally coat the plate with clear lacquer (b), at least twice.
A milling model made of chipboard strips (residual material) takes care of that, that the router does not deviate from the path.
The dimensioning of this guide depends on the base plate of the router. The milling model is fixed with clamps for each work process.
The material for the door: MDF Flat.
■ Jede Nut (a) has a width of 20 mm and a depth, those of the thickness of the aluminum strips
depends (that. 2 mm).
■ Mit Kontaktkleber werden die Aluminiumstreifen in die MDF-Platte eingeklebt (b). To give the whole thing a classy finish, Swipe
all with clear coat over.
Plywood boards (4 mm) im Format 10 x 10 cm are the be-all and end-all of the cassette effect. First give the whole area the color you want:
■ Mit Acryllack (satin finish) cross them out 19 mm thick MDF board (a), then sand the surface and paint again. The second coat is smoothed out nicely with a foam rubber roller.
■ Die Brettchen zunächst mit Nitro-Klarlack streichen, then press onto the glued surface (b). serve as spacers 5 cm wide strips of wood, which you fix with clamps. Use a special glue (for wood on painted surfaces) and fasten the boards with wire pins until they harden, whose holes you finally putty with wax.
Micro corrugated board comes in sheets of 120 x 140 cm. It is pieced together in strips.
acts as a basis 19 mm thick chipboard.
■ Die Spanplatte über die ganze Fläche mit Leim bestreichen, Put corrugated cardboard on top and with a second board of the same size (and Z. B. with bricks) complain (a).
■ Saubere Kanten entstehen problemlos mit einem Cuttermesser (b).
■ Flache Holzleisten (5×21 mm) serve to protect the edges (c). They are mitred and both glued and pinned.
Multi-skin sheets made of PVC can be processed just as easily as conventional materials.
Their special feature is the ribbed structure and transparency. Two such web plates, each having a width of 20 have cm, are pressed together with tongue and groove.
■ Aluminiumschienen mit U-Profil bilden den Rahmen der Tür. They are available in every hardware store and are mitred with a small hacksaw (a).
■ Mit Silikon (crystal clear) The profiles of the aluminum rails are ejected from the cartridge and then pressed around the web plates (b). Until the joint compound has hardened, the rails must be fixed with adhesive tape and pressed onto the multi-wall sheets. Excess mass can then be removed with a cutter.
This proposal for building cabinet doors consists of only two components: Hardboard perforated board and square strips. You'll also need a handful of small nails or pins (20 mm) and white glue.
■ Die Quadratleisten mit den Maßen 20 x 20 mm form the frame of the door, which otherwise only consists of the perforated hardboard. The ledges are made with a drill (1 mm) pre-drilled at the ends, so that the wood does not split when nailed. Then they are butt glued together and additionally fixed with nails.
In order to give the door leaf greater overall stability, should you – depending on the overall size – also reinforce the frame with crossbars. Now cut the perforated plate to the size of the frame. Apply plenty of glue to the frame and pin the perforated plate to it.