Happy, who can fall back on food from their own production this summer. An underground greenhouse gives you the chance, to enjoy the fruits of your labor regularly.
Why dig in the earth?
The underground greenhouse basically has two major advantages over normal greenhouses: Once you can only see half of it and therefore doesn't seem as intrusive as many of its freestanding conspecifics. Second, due to the design, the beds are automatically at working height – So you don't need any additional worktop, and the already troubled back escapes the herniated disc.
For our type of construction you need, next to the wood, also concrete paving slabs from 5 cm thickness and 50 x 50 cm respectively 50 x 75 cm side length. So that the whole house is on a solid basis, sand is required for the necessary bed – around a quarter of a cubic meter is enough here.
The foundation is the most important thing!
Our underground greenhouse literally stands and falls with the concrete slab foundation, to which you should therefore pay the utmost attention. So that the plates are stable, they must be aligned exactly perpendicular. The plates, which you place on top of each other as aisle delimitation, you have to glue them together, preferably with a layer of cement mortar. At the outer corners of the greenhouse, screws and dowels secure the connection of the concrete slabs. In this case, the wooden structure cannot take on a stiffening function, because it seeks a hold on the plates itself and no inclined struts are installed. The greenhouse itself is then a very simple construction 16 post, which support a monopitch roof made of rafters and purlins. As the back of the greenhouse is boarded, three posts are sufficient here 2,50 mouse. The front needs five posts, so that the swiveling window frames used are also easy to handle. Instead of shortening the posts to size and angle beforehand, set them up first, draw on, cut to size and only then finally assemble.
1 A lattice frame as a gauge for the external dimensions of the greenhouse will help you to determine the position and the shaft work.
2 The paving slabs for the floor (50 x 75 cm) place in a 10 cm bed of sand and align them horizontally. You mortar the vertical plates in the corridor.
3 Are all vertical plates placed and aligned, attach a roof batten all around with screws and dowels. Use the hole spade to dig the holes for the posts and insert them.
4 The posts are fixed with stainless steel screws, which you screw into the wood through the concrete slabs.
5 Mark the upper post sections with a straightedge and pencil. The angle of inclination is about 11 °.
6 The connections of the rafters and purlins are notched with a hammer and chisel.
7 Are rafters and purlins on the posts, Lay the double-skin sheets including the sealing strips from the rafter axis to the rafter axis. Cover the joints with screwed-on strips.
8 You screw the window frames together from battens, the glass is held in place by bars on both sides.
9 The door, boarded halfway up, is supported by three galvanized hinges.