With lightweight walls made of metal posts and plasterboard, you can expand the usable space under the roof. An individual interior design makes full use of it.
You can also sleep under the sloping roof? You are not alone in this. Practically all single families- and semi-detached houses, those in the last 20 Years ago, have the bedroom on the first or second floor. And so is (at least!) programmed a sloping wall. Our suggestion: Turn this weakness into a strength, make your dream of a walk-in closet come true. This is much easier thanks to modern drywall elements, as thought.
Structure of the stud frame
Before it begins, first a tip: The drywall screws, with which you attach the plasterboard to the stud frame, must not be turned through the cardboard surface into the plaster layer, because the stability of the entire wall can suffer. Better to get a bit holder with a screw depth limit, that causes, that the screw is screwed in flush with the surface. The cardboard layer remains intact. Such bit holders are available in hardware stores for about 6 Euro.
1 The first step: floor- and ceiling profiles (YOUR-Profile) cut with tin snips. You should be careful when doing this, because the edges are quite sharp.
2 Now fix the profile on the floor with screws and dowels. tip: If you want to save time, take drive-in dowels. To do this, drill holes in the profile and base and fasten the sheets with a few blows of the hammer. Always take care, that the distance between the screws is never greater than 100 cm!
3 Cut and fasten the upright and inclined CW profiles in the roof area.
4 After you put the CW profiles in the UW profiles, connect them to each other using the crimping pliers. It creates a form-fitting connection between the metal profiles, by cutting and beading the overlapping profiles in one step. (The crimper costs about 80 Euro, is also available on loan in the construction business.) For reasons of stability, the distances between the profiles should not be more than 62,5 cm
5 In that area, where the inner partition meets the front wall (see drawing on page 24), leave a gap twice as thick as plasterboard. This simplifies the assembly of the plasterboard.
6 The cross member is attached.
7 In the area of the wall connection to the left and right of the profiles, an adhesive separating strip is attached for the plasterboard filling.
8 Always attach the plates in this way, that the joints do not meet, So so-called butt joints never arise.
9 Finally, fill the joints and sand them flat.