Simple building instructions, Installation and maintenance tips
A few pieces of scrap wood from the workshop, the right instructions and some time: Nothing more is needed, to build perfect nest boxes for the birds in the garden.
Big old trees, Dense bushes or corners with wild growth are only found in a few gardens. But lots of plants, which provide food for birds. That red tail, Tits and flycatchers make their home in the garden, In addition to berries and seeds for food, they also need nesting sites, that are tailored to their needs.
The simplest are self-made nesting boxes from seasoned, at least 2 cm thick wood, that should be left untreated. All types of wood are suitable, you just have to be careful with coniferous wood, that the pieces contain no resin channels, because the resin flows out when it is warm and the feathers of the birds can stick together. At least the inside of the boards should be rough sawn (or get roughed up), because the young birds find support on this surface, to leave the nest box.
The suspension is slightly different depending on the bird species – Stock pigeons only accept hanging boxes at least three meters high, Tits like that too, placed at eye level. However, they should always be inaccessible to cats, be martens or other predators, also protected against the blazing sun and driving rain. The flight hole is best in the south-east direction and allows a free approach. Small birds need one to two meters, larger three meters and more free approach space.
The earlier a box is hung, the better. Because it often serves as winter quarters and is also more easily accepted, when it's a bit weathered.
The right box for every bird species
The simplest and at the same time versatile is the nest box for tits, which can be built according to the instructions below. She is made by blue tit, great tit, Tannenmeise, marsh tit, Crested Tits, nuthatches, pied flycatcher, collar snapper, Redstart and Rock Sparrow accepted. An entrance hole of is enough for the little tits 2,6 cm, otherwise it is 3,2 to 3,4 inches right.
The starling nest cave, which is also obtained from the wryneck and the hoopoe, is built in the same way as the tit cave, however larger. The flight hole with center 4 cm below the top edge of the leading edge has a diameter of 4,6 to 5 cm, the flight hole wall is 14 x 26 cm tall, the back wall 18 x 31 cm, the side walls 15 x 27,5 x 31 cm, the floor 14 x 14 cm and the roof 21 x 25 cm.
Even bigger, but the hollow pigeon cave is built according to the same principle, in which also jackdaws, Tawny owls and hoopoes breed. The board thickness should 2,5 cm, the flight hole with center 8 cm below the top of the wall 8 to 9 cm tall. The flight hole wall has the dimensions 25 x 34 cm, the back wall 30 x 38 cm, the side walls 26,3 x 36 x 38 cm, the bottom with four to six drainage holes from 3 mm diameter is 25 x 25 cm tall and the roof 34 x 36 cm. Because the box is so big, the front wall is held in the middle on both sides with brass hooks instead of the usual stainless steel screw.
Many of our native birds do not breed in caves. For niche breeders such as black redstart, Pits are built for spotted flycatchers and wagtails, those of the wren too, Robins and redstarts are accepted. The measurements: 16 x 8,5 cm for the front wall, 16 x 17 cm for the back wall, 15 x 12,5 x 15 cm for the side walls, 16×15 cm for the floor and 20 x 22 cm for the roof. Swallows need nothing more than nesting pads, because they build the actual nest out of earth and saliva themselves. For barn swallows, the nesting aid should be one 15 x 15 cm floor have with 4 cm high and 1 cm thick side rails. A support is used 15 x 15 x 21,2 cm large triangular board. House Martins breed gregariously, therefore you should give them at least two to three nesting pads or. (as shown here) Offer double nests, which you can then develop yourself.